How To Make A Robot With Arduino Uno – About: We are two young designers, Kousheek Chakraborty and Satya Schiavina. We like to use digital design, electronics and other different fields of knowledge to create projects that emphasize simplicity, ability … More about technological innovation »
I have always been fascinated by robots, especially those that try to imitate human actions. This interest led me to try to design and develop a bipedal robot that can mimic human walking and running. In this tutorial, I will show you the design and assembly of a biped robot.
How To Make A Robot With Arduino Uno
The main goal of building this project was to make the system as robust as possible so that while I was trying out different ways of walking and running, I wouldn’t I always worry about hardware failure. This allowed me to push the hardware to its limits. The second goal was to make the biped less expensive using readily available hobby parts and 3D printing, leaving room for further improvements and expansion. Together, these two goals provide a solid basis for conducting various experiments, allowing others to develop a biped for specific needs.
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Follow along to build your own Arduino-controlled robotic bipod and leave a vote in the “Arduino Contest” if you liked the project.
The humanoid legs were created in Autodesk for free using Fusion 360 3d modeling software. I first put the servo motors into the design and built the motors around them. I created a mount for the servo motor that provides a second pivot point to go on the servo motor shaft. Having two shafts in each part of the motor gives stability to the design and eliminates any twisting that may occur when the legs are under a small load. The connectors were designed to hold the cables while the cables used a bolt for the shaft. When the links were attached to the shafts with a nut, the bearing would provide a smooth and strong pivot point on the other side of the servo motor shaft.
Another goal in designing the bipods was to keep the model as compact as possible using the torque provided by the servo motors. The connectors were sized to achieve maximum range of motion while minimizing overall length. Making them too short can cause the mounts to collide, reducing differential movement, and making them too long can cause unnecessary torque on the actuator. Finally, I designed a robot body that the Arduino and other electronics would connect to.
Arduino Uno is used in this project. The Arduino was responsible for reading the different motion paths tested, commanding the actuators to move at the right angles at the right speed to create a smooth movement. Arduino is a good choice for developing projects because of its flexibility. It provides many IO cables and also provides interfaces like serial, I2C and SPI to communicate with other microcontrollers and sensors. Arduino also provides a great platform for rapid prototyping and testing, and gives developers room for improvement and expansion. In this project, other improvements will include an inertial measurement module for motion functions such as the detection of falls and strong movements on uneven surfaces, and distance measurement sensors for avoid obstacles.
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Here is a list of all the parts and components needed to build your own bipedal Arduino robot. All parts should be widely available and easily accessible.
The parts needed for this project had to be custom made, so a 3D printer was used to print them. Images are made with 40% fill, 2 borders, 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.1 mm length with PLA, the color of your choice. Below you can find a complete list of parts and STL to print your model.
Once all the parts are printed you can start installing the servos and servo brackets. Click forward to activate the knee servo. The fit should be tight but I recommend sanding the surface of the hole a bit rather than forcing the bearing to risk breaking the part. Then insert the M4 bolt through the hole and tighten it with nuts. Next, hold the foot connector and attach the round corner of the servo to it using the included screws. Attach the leg attachment to the knee servo holder using the screws you will use to attach the servo motor. Be sure to align the motor so that the shaft is on the same side as the bolt you installed earlier. Finally, secure the servo with some nuts and bolts.
Do the same with the servo holder waist and servo holder leg. With this you should have three servo motors and their corresponding mounts.
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Once the brackets are connected, start making the links. To make a link to carry, once again a little sand on the surface of the inner water for delivery, then press to put in the hole on both sides. Be sure to push the bearing until one side is flat. To create the servo angle connector, grab the two round servo angles and the included screws. Place the corners on the 3D printer and fix the holes, then screw the corner to the 3D printer by adjusting the screw from the side of the 3D printer. I recommend using a 3D printed angle servo for these screws. Once the links are built, you can start putting the foot together.
Once the links and mounts are assembled, you can assemble them to build the robot leg. First, use the servo angle connector to connect the hip servo mount and the knee servo together. Note: Do not screw the horn to the servo yet as it is the installation step in the next step and it will be difficult if the horn was screwed to the servo motor.
On the other hand, attach the bearing bracket to the protruding bolts using the nuts. Finally, attach the leg servo mount by inserting the protruding bolt into the slot on the knee servo mount. And attach the servo shaft to the servo horn connected to the servo knee on the other side. This can be a complicated job and I would recommend a second pair of hands for this.
This is an optional step. To make the wiring neat I decided to make a custom PCB using a perf board and header pins. The PCB has connections to connect the servo power cables directly. In addition, I have also left an additional port if I want to expand and add other sensors such as inertial measurement units or ultrasonic distance sensors. It also includes a connector for the external power supply needed to drive the servo motors. A jumper connection is used to switch between USB and external power for the Arduino. Attach the Arduino and PCB to both sides of the electronics cover using screws and 3D printed spacers.
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Note: Be sure to remove the jumper before connecting the Arduino to your computer via USB. Failure to do this may damage the Arduino.
If you decide not to use a PCB and use a breadboard instead, the servo connections are:
If you decide to have a PCB follow the same order as above using the connectors on the PCB from right to left with the IMU connector facing up. And use standard male to female jumper cables to connect the PCB to the Arduino using the numbers above. Make sure you also connect the ground pin and make the same ground connection as the Vin pin if you decide to run it without USB power.
Once the two legs and electronics are connected, they are joined together to build the body of the robot. Use the bridge piece to join the two legs together. Use the same holes on the shaft holder as the nuts and bolts that hold the servo motor. Finally, connect the electronics to the bridge. Drill holes on the bridge and electronics and use M4 nuts and bolts to make the joints.
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See attached images for help. With this, you have completed the construction of the robot hardware. Next, let’s jump into the software and bring the robot to life.
What I noticed while building this project is that the servo motors and horns don’t have to fit perfectly to play. Therefore, the “center position” of each servo motor must be manually adjusted to match the feet. To do this, remove the servo horns from each servo and run the initial_setup.ino sketch. Once the motors are in the middle position, bring the horns together again so that the legs are perfectly straight and the foot is parallel to the ground. If so, you’re in luck. If not, open the constants.h file found in the next tab and change the servo offset value (lines 1-6) to feet.
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