How To Build Your Own Patio Cover – We finished our build a year and a half ago and even before we started our build I was dreaming of my dream covered back porch. We extended our backyard with the intention of covering it. Fast forward now and the covering is done inside my back porch. I want to shout it from the rooftops. Not only did we finish, we built every part of it ourselves and we want to share with you how we did it! Seriously, if a stay-at-home mom (and part-time teacher’s aide) and her engineer husband can do it, so can you… especially since I’m told the engineer husband has done all the hard math for you and us. This to you on a silver platter!!
I also scoured Pinterest and Google for an exact step-by-step way to build a covered patio and found nothing. So here we are to fill that hole. We’re going to go into great detail in this blog post, but we figured if you’re going to build this thing, you probably want all the details, so we didn’t hold back and even though it looks like a lot – it’s actually a simple build. Was…it just takes time and stuff! We should mention that this is a big project and you don’t want to do it without extreme care. Consider building codes – ours is not ‘permanent’ so we don’t need planning permission, consider how much snow you get in a year and adjust your slope accordingly. The last thing you want to do is take the time to build this thing and have it either be something your city doesn’t allow without a permit, or have it fall apart after a big snowstorm.
How To Build Your Own Patio Cover
E. Rafters aka Roof Support (Our patio was 40 feet long but we left the last 10 feet covered so the number of rafters is actually to cover 30 feet and leave the last part bare with hanging lights so the sun can reach us. The pool, on it more later)
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E. Corbel/Gusset – 6 total (this is not optional, very important to the structure – but looks great – win/win)
F Roof – They have our metal panel roof at Home Depot, but we figured it was cheaper and easier to find at a local roofing company who also had the right screws and bent our siding at right angles.
The rest of this content list is optional – meaning it won’t add to the structure and is all just an aesthetic change we added to get the look we were going for!
Roof (this is optional – we did it for aesthetic purposes and not necessary for construction)
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You may need to cut more depending on the length of your patio cover and also consider that our patio is 12′ deep so our vertical joists are 12′ – so adjust accordingly according to the depth of your patio.
2 x 6 x 12′ cut 5° on each end parallel (joist over joists) – calculation and images below in joist section
4 x 6 x 32” (long edge) cut at 45° on each end – image below in corbel/gusset section
I suggest making a rough sketch of your own patio dimensions to see what length of wood will fit best on your own patio. This sketch is also when you need to pay attention to where your doors, windows, steps, anything in your space will be in relation to your posts. We made the space between the support posts a little wider in the center of our patio cover so that when you look out our back door, you’re not looking directly at a support post that breaks that line of sight. It is very important to make things look symmetrical and ideas and sketches of views from all the spaces inside and outside will help with that.
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Once you have the stuff you want, I would mark where you put the posts or double check (because once you start you can’t go back!) that everything is in line with windows, doors and anything else. makes sense with. Get blocked in your yard. The extra cedar planks are an aesthetic aspect we added to make the posts look like cedar and give a more finished look! This is completely optional, but it will also completely change the look of your patio! If you want to save money for now, you can always cedar wrap later!
Husband’s Insert: To secure the posts, we purchased 4 post bases and 4 concrete anchors to attach the post bases to our concrete patio. I had to buy a 6″ long 5/8″ concrete drill bit to drill the pilot holes for the anchors. Things we learned the hard way: I tried using a regular battery powered drill and found that it would take a week of drilling, charging batteries and more drilling. I had to borrow a 1/2″ corded drill from my dad with more juice to finish the mounting holes. After switching the drill, I finished the holes in 20 minutes. After with the information on how deep to drill the holes the pilot holes for the anchors are complete. , I anchored the post base to the concrete.
Then we put the 4 x 6 x 8 foot post into the post base and screwed it in with 3″ wood screws. We had a 6″ side of 4 x 6 facing the house. It is important that the posts are roughly level, but it is not extremely important that they are perfectly level because the cross beams and then the corbels will correct any imperfections. Note: The posts will be very wobbly at this point because what’s holding them up is the post base, which doesn’t have much lateral support.
After you have your posts in place, you will start on the cross beams on top of the support posts that will support the weight of your roof. Again, we added optional cedar sheathing to the cross beams to add to the look, but it’s not an essential part of the project.
Built A Patio Cover, Do I Need Additional Bracing?
Enter the Spouse: I wanted this to be strong so there would be no sag in the middle of the rafters when there was weight from the roof and snow later, so I decided to use two 2 x 6 bolts together for strength. Using 3″ wood screws, I cut two pieces of 2 x 6 x 12 feet for each end and two pieces of 2 x 6 x 16 feet for the middle. The finished product is about 4 x 6. Then, with a partner, I cut one of the 12 foot pieces. Raise the end post to one of the sets. When you are done placing it, the end post should be completely covered by the cross member and the middle post should be half covered. The other half will be used by the middle cross member. Make sure that one The measurements from the bottom of the post to the next and from the top of one post to the next are the same. Again, horizontality isn’t that important, but if the top dimension and the bottom dimension aren’t the same when you go to level them, you have a problem. If your If they do not have the same dimensions, move the outside post cross member before you continue.
Since the posts are 4 x 6’s (actual dimensions 3.5 x 5.5) and the cross beams are two 2 x 6’s (actual dimensions 3 x 5.5), there is 1/2″ of extra wood visible on the posts, so where do I wrap the posts and beams with cedar boards? Going, I decided to place the cross beam flush inside the post (toward the house) and take care of the rest later. It’s up to you how you want to finish this.
Now that the cross member is in place, you don’t want to move it. Place temporary metal ties (example) with 1-1/4″ wood screws to secure the cross beams to the posts. Then, with a partner, place the 16-foot cross beams. This should run through one center. Post in the center of each other. Two posts. Check the dimension below for the center top dimension. If the cross member is longer than it should be from center to center of the post, you will need to cut it. You can cut the cross member. 6 with 2 x bolts, just make sure you cut any screws. No. Once you have the center cross member in place, add the metal link.
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