Build Your Own Outdoor Shed - All About Forex

Build Your Own Outdoor Shed

Build Your Own Outdoor Shed – About: I am a designer/maker working in the Waterloo region of Ontario, Canada. I am currently working on my practice TIG welding, CNC production and working on bringing in some small stainless steel products for marking… More on NathanaelScheffler »

Hello! This is my entry in the Shopbot Contest. This instructable will show you the steps to build his own shed. We decided our shed would be for storage because we wanted to get some things out of the garage so we could use it as a shop. One of the challenges of building a shed in our garden is that the ground was sloped in the area we wanted to put it on, so we had to find a way to deflect it. Another was that we’re building next to some well-established trees and didn’t want to damage their root structure. That is why we choose concrete blocks and mortar instead of poured concrete.

Build Your Own Outdoor Shed

Build Your Own Outdoor Shed

WARNING: In our city we do not need a permit to build a shed as long as it is less than 10×10. Check your area for permit/without permit building regulations.

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We decided to build the foundation for our shed out of cinder blocks. This will help keep rats out and won’t risk damaging the trees around the shed. In order to lay a good foundation, we first had to level the ground. It was not necessary to level the center of the base of the structure because it was later filled with a limestone pan. We made channels for the cinder blocks with a shovel and a pick, and we made sure to create a channel for electricity as well. The electricity comes from our house, which is about 10 feet away from where the sink is.

For the foundation masonry we went out and bought 15 cinder blocks, with these extras and mud bricks we got for free at kijiji and some cinder blocks from a neighbor’s old yard. Clay bricks can only be used on the ground, otherwise they will erode. Looking back, it would be easier to just use cinder blocks and we recommend this if you don’t have other materials to dispose of. Also, buy more mortar than you think you’ll need. We ended up using a lot of mortar and if you have any extra you can always return it or pour it into the cinder blocks as we further strengthened the foundation.

Now we can start building! Before you start to ash, put lime filters in all the gutters and turn your electricity on and off. Make sure your wires are properly marked (we used caution tape) so no one accidentally touches them in the future. Once they are all together you can start laying down some cinder blocks. You may need to break some cinder blocks in half, and this is easily done with a chisel, hammer, and a little bit of time. Tip: Place rod posts at each corner and tie the wires together to help keep the walls straight. You should check the level of each block, especially on this layer, as the foundation base will affect the rest of the foundation, and in turn will affect the main structure.

The frame is the most important part of the above ground structure because it stiffens the plywood frames and supports the roof. You will need a lot of 2x4s and a way to join them. We used this as an excuse to buy some new jackhammers from Canadian Tire. We were able to get the lumber for the entire project delivered by a company called Tamrack Lumber. They brought a truck and left all the supplies. For the roof, you’ll need small plates with groups of nails sticking out of them, which I think are called joist plates. These are used in the corners to keep them from shifting. The last thing you’ll need is a way to cut all the 2x4s. For this we borrowed a very nice miter from a friend for a few days. It’s easiest if the cutting tool can cut at an angle, otherwise you’ll have to improvise when cutting the pieces for the roof.

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The next thing we did was put all the walls together. The 2x4s were spaced 2 feet apart once cut to proper length and then permanently attached with the framing hammer. Then we supported the four frames, after marking which side they were on, on the wall of the house until the foundation was finished.

Before we can finish the base, we need to set up the electricity. Run a piece of conduit over your wiring to protect it from any damage it may receive while finishing the base and to give the sink a more finished look. Make sure the pipe and internal cable are pointing perpendicular to the ground, and preferably go directly to where your first outlet will be.

The foundation walls have been created and the electrical installation is complete, now all that needs to be done is fill the empty hole in the middle with limestone aggregate. We also threw away some cement pavers that we had lying around because we did not intend to use them and we have already tried to give them away. Once the limestone is in place, flatten it by jumping on it and continue to fill in any spots that aren’t level yet. After the entire base is filled with as much limestone as it can fit, put a soaking spray in and leave it for the next hour or so. You may need to add a bit more lime after doing this too.

Build Your Own Outdoor Shed

Now we need to create a base on which we can nail the frames for the walls. We made this with four 2x8s and some bent I-bolts along with a lot of mortar. The basic process was that we lowered the bottom of the i-bolts after heating them with a torch and then anchored them into some of the holes in the cinder blocks with lots of mortar. Then we drill holes in the 2×8 where the i screws were and put them on top and screw them down. The frames can now be solidly attached to the base with the Framing Hammer.

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The next step is to attach what will become your wall to the 2x8s that were attached to the foundation in the previous step. We did this by first joining the four wall frames together

Attach them to the base. This ensured that we could make sure the frame was square before putting it into its final position.

The roof treatment is supported by plywood and shingles which make the roof waterproof. It is very important to plan them carefully because they require unusual angles and must fit into the structure below. We gave our shed a bit of auwn and this was to be accompanied by the trusses, above the shed walls by about a foot on each side. When building your joists it is important to use joist plates, otherwise the angles you have carefully planned will not hold for long. We used a 2×4 to hold the studs while we attached them to the walls.

We use fake boards and sticks to make our shed aesthetically pleasing. We put a white border on the edges to make them more pronounced as well.

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As you can see, I do not have photos of the doors created. This is because they were taken away

Too much trouble to make it, and I didn’t really have the patience to take pictures of them being built because they were tested and redone about 3 times. Lesson learned: leave allowances larger than you think they’ll need, you can always use weather stripping to help close them later. After 3 tries we finally got the doors to work properly. One door is held in place with slide latches on the floor and ceiling frame and the second door is held in place with another latch.

Now we are going to paint the entire shed. As you can see, the evil doors were painted separately from the rest of the structure because they took so long to complete. We used a light brown stain that was semi-transparent because we still wanted to see the grain of the wood, and a bright white paint to accent the trim.

Build Your Own Outdoor Shed

Roof finishing was done by laying 7/16 inch boards and laying brown asphalt shingles on top.

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You have now finished your flow! Once your doors are on, you can add latches and locks. Our sink windows are made of 1/4-inch thick plexiglass held in place with white silicone to match the trim. The floor was finished with concrete tiles. Now you can choose to leave the inside

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